I've finally finished making my first shirt. It's a wearable muslin for my eventual Black and White challenge shirt. I wanted to go through the whole process (interfacing, buttons, buttonholes, etc.) before doing the same with my fashion fabric.

My notes after the jump...

Materials

• Cotton (old bedsheet): $0
• Interfacing (already had): $0 
• Buttons (from old shirts): $0
• Pattern: $3.50

 So cheap! It makes up for what I spent on my Minoru jacket.

Pattern

BurdaStyle Ute (6020)

At first, I was going to use Sewaholic Alma for my Black and White Challenge. But after thinking about the fabric I chose, I thought it would look better with the wider collar and neat sleeve details that Ute has (they have a 1940s vibe, no?). I also really wanted to try a shirt with princess seams, as I had read that they are good for fitting (in this book).



The pattern instructions weren't that great. There were many gaps and awkward sentences (bad translation?). Because of this, my goal is to create a step-by-step sew-along here (stay tuned!).

Alterations

• At first, I made a size 40 (according to my measurements). The shirt ended up with to much easy. I then measured an existing shirt I had and compared it to the pattern. That indicated that I needed the shirt to be between size 36 and 38. As it seemed really baggy with size 40, I made a size 36. 
• Size 36 did end up being a little tight. I let out both of the side seams by 1/4" and a little more near my hips. This was a 3/8" seam allowance on the sides and graded to a 3/16" seam allowance starting 7" from the bottom of the shirt.  
• The armscye is not quite right. It needs to be moved up and out (more ease). Unfortunately, I had trimmed the seam allowance before I realized it was an issue. I was able to fix a bit of the pulling that it caused across my chest by letting out the princess seams above and at my bust by 1/8" each.
• I took in the back princess seams by my waist for a more closely fitted look. I was able to eliminate most of the excess fabric that gathered there by doing this. A dressform would have definitely made this adjustment much easier!

Not too shabby for an old bedsheet! I'm pretty happy with the finished shirt. It is only my first shirt, so I shouldn't be too hard on myself for any little imperfections it might have.

My husband had fun playing photographer

Now I'm off to start my next Ute!