I finally got to making another bra. The first two bras I made weren't perfect. But, they are still so comfortable, that I don't wear any of my other bras any more. Which means that they will quickly wear out if I don't move along with more bra production.
Pattern
Pin-Up Girls Linda Partial Bra Band
I made a size 38B with alterations. I may actually be a 40A, but the pattern stops at 38A, which uses a size down underwire.
Alterations
The main alterations I made with this bra were to use a narrower bridge and to take about 1/2" out of the top of the lower cup. I also added 1/2" length to the bra bands.
The fit is almost perfect. It's now a little snug, but that may be because I figured out these changes by pinning out my second Linda bra. I've worn that bra quite a bit and the fabric may now be relaxing out a bit. I'm going to wear my new bra a bit to see if the fit improves after a few wears. If not, I may have to add back some depth on the lower cup.
I re-read the Bra Makers Manual and finally noticed the importance it placed on finding the right size bridge before you sew. It suggests to cut little templates and try it them. My previous bras had bridges that are too wide, which means that the bridge gapes and doesn't lay flat against my chest.
If you are about to sew a bra, I would suggest:
For Christmas, I got a few fabric sets from Bra Makers Supplies to make more bras (yay!). This one is the Black Cherry with Rose/Black Lace. A black findings kit had to be purchased separately.
The black findings worked really well with the red-ish 'black cherry' fabric. The band fabric was a double knit instead of the power net I used with the earlier bras. It is much thicker, so I did have some trouble sewing near some of the seams. I think I prefer the power net.
The lace placement was probably the hardest thing! I spent about an hour trying to figure it out. Overall, I'm really happy with my placement. And, although I usually don't use the little bows, the bra looked like it wanted it. The bra is almost too pretty!
Once again, I'm really impressed with the pattern and resulting bra.
But wait! There's more! I had leftover fabric and lace, as well as some extra picot elastic that I had bought, so I decided to make matching panties.
The pattern is the Free Lacey Thong by Fehr Trade.
The pattern was super simple and it was a quick sew. I had some scrap jersey left over to use for the crotch lining.
I made a size large, since that is the size that is supposed to fit someone who fits a Burda size 40 (which I do). The fit is perfect and I can't believe how comfortable they are. I'm not sure how often I'll wear them, but they will come in handy when I'm wearing a dress or skirt that I don't want weird underwear lines with.
Who new making underwear and lingerie could be so fun and easy?!
Pattern
Pin-Up Girls Linda Partial Bra Band
I made a size 38B with alterations. I may actually be a 40A, but the pattern stops at 38A, which uses a size down underwire.
Alterations
The main alterations I made with this bra were to use a narrower bridge and to take about 1/2" out of the top of the lower cup. I also added 1/2" length to the bra bands.
The fit is almost perfect. It's now a little snug, but that may be because I figured out these changes by pinning out my second Linda bra. I've worn that bra quite a bit and the fabric may now be relaxing out a bit. I'm going to wear my new bra a bit to see if the fit improves after a few wears. If not, I may have to add back some depth on the lower cup.
I re-read the Bra Makers Manual and finally noticed the importance it placed on finding the right size bridge before you sew. It suggests to cut little templates and try it them. My previous bras had bridges that are too wide, which means that the bridge gapes and doesn't lay flat against my chest.
If you are about to sew a bra, I would suggest:
- Find the right underwire size by placing test ones (or make a template out of cardboard)
- Find the right bridge size by making little templates out of thin cardboard
- Measure your breast or a bra that fits to find the right lower cup depth
Just those three steps will probably save lots of time in fitting.
For Christmas, I got a few fabric sets from Bra Makers Supplies to make more bras (yay!). This one is the Black Cherry with Rose/Black Lace. A black findings kit had to be purchased separately.
 |
| wrong side |
The lace placement was probably the hardest thing! I spent about an hour trying to figure it out. Overall, I'm really happy with my placement. And, although I usually don't use the little bows, the bra looked like it wanted it. The bra is almost too pretty!
Once again, I'm really impressed with the pattern and resulting bra.
But wait! There's more! I had leftover fabric and lace, as well as some extra picot elastic that I had bought, so I decided to make matching panties.
The pattern is the Free Lacey Thong by Fehr Trade.
 |
| wrong side |
I made a size large, since that is the size that is supposed to fit someone who fits a Burda size 40 (which I do). The fit is perfect and I can't believe how comfortable they are. I'm not sure how often I'll wear them, but they will come in handy when I'm wearing a dress or skirt that I don't want weird underwear lines with.
Who new making underwear and lingerie could be so fun and easy?!
I made a second Pin-Up Girls Linda Partial Band Bra. It's still not quite the right size, but I'm getting there.
Sewing this second bra went a little smoother than the first. I didn't have to struggle with tension or the instructions, since I figured that stuff out the first time around.
The first bra I made was a size 36B. It fit pretty well in the cups, is a little snug in the band, and the underwires seem a little small. This time around I tried the 38B, which has the next size up underwires. Now for the new reveal...
Not bad, but still not perfect. The underwires feel good, but the bridge is now gaping about 1" away from my body. The cups are slightly too big. I also had some issues with the straps and the band. The band ended up being about 1" too short for comfort! Since this bra was still otherwise wearable, I decided to make a small extension piece out of the bra material.
Again, not perfect, but it still functions and is now no longer too tight. Another issues is that the straps that came with the findings kit from Bra Makers Supply were huge! They are 3/4" wide and I had to really angle them to get them to be close to where they needed to go. As you might notice in the picture above, the right side is a little more than the left. The right side almost sits flat on my back, but the left has some buckling. I prefer much thinner strap elastics for this reason.
Overall, the bra is still wearable and is more comfortable than most RTW bras I have ever owned. For my next bra, I hope to address these fitting issues and get even closer to the right bra for me.
Sewing this second bra went a little smoother than the first. I didn't have to struggle with tension or the instructions, since I figured that stuff out the first time around.
 |
| Inside of the bra |
Not bad, but still not perfect. The underwires feel good, but the bridge is now gaping about 1" away from my body. The cups are slightly too big. I also had some issues with the straps and the band. The band ended up being about 1" too short for comfort! Since this bra was still otherwise wearable, I decided to make a small extension piece out of the bra material.
Again, not perfect, but it still functions and is now no longer too tight. Another issues is that the straps that came with the findings kit from Bra Makers Supply were huge! They are 3/4" wide and I had to really angle them to get them to be close to where they needed to go. As you might notice in the picture above, the right side is a little more than the left. The right side almost sits flat on my back, but the left has some buckling. I prefer much thinner strap elastics for this reason.
Overall, the bra is still wearable and is more comfortable than most RTW bras I have ever owned. For my next bra, I hope to address these fitting issues and get even closer to the right bra for me.
I took the plunge and made myself a bra! It was a lot easier and less scary than I thought it would be.
Materials
All of the materials, *except the underwires*, were included in the Newbie Kit from Bra Makers Supply. (I, of course, forgot the underwires.... sigh).
I bought the kit with the manual. It came with the choice of book or CD manual. I choose the CD manual, because it was less expensive. The manual is nice, but everything you need to know to sew the bra together is in the pattern instructions. The manual will be good if I plan on any design alterations in the future.
The kit includes enough fabric and findings for two bras. I have a small bra size, so I have enough fabric to make another bra or two, but will need more findings (and underwires).
As for needles, I did all of my sewing with a 80/12 Ballpoint. I found that I need to have my normal tension when sewing the elastics to the bra, less tension when sewing just the bra material (ie. sewing the cup pieces), and more tension when sewing underwire casings to the cups.
Pattern
Pin-Up Girls "Linda" (#8230) Partial Band Bra
The instructions were easy to follow. A couple steps could use a few more notes. For example, it says sew the underwire casing 1/2" down from the front and 1" down from the sides. But, it does not say to do this for the top stitching and the top stitching picture shows stitching all the way to the top. It would be nice if it were mentioned again, as this would make it easier if you sew like me - I often put a project down to do other things (I do work full-time after all!) and forget the point of previous steps. So, I of course had to undo some top stitching.
The instructions are also not clear when sewing on the back bra strap. At first, I sewed them at a 1/4" seam allowance, but the ends were too big to fit into the hook and eye pieces. So, I resewed them matching the outside of the bra strap with the bra band edge and that seemed to work.
As for sizing, I'm somewhere in around a 36B and 34C according to my measurement. I went with a 36B, since that is the size I often buy in the store. This is usually the best fitting size out of what I have to choose from at the store, but I don't think I've ever had a bra that actually fits.
I am amazed with how well my Linda bra actually fits! It's a little snug, but it's definitely better than any bra that I've ever bought. Now for the reveal...
Not bad for my first bra! It's pretty comfortable. It is a little wrinkly in the picture, because I'm holding my arms in an awkward way for taking pictures.
The underwire is a little snug and the hooks and eyes are at the largest setting. I think I might try a 36C using the rest of my kit for a comparison. From there, I should be able to find out what works for me and make many more.
While I paid quite a bit to make just two bras (I think I spent around $190), I have a bra that fits and I now have the knowledge and skills to make many more bras. Plus, as I mentioned earlier, I have some left over fabric for a couple more bras on top of that (I'll just need more findings).
Materials
All of the materials, *except the underwires*, were included in the Newbie Kit from Bra Makers Supply. (I, of course, forgot the underwires.... sigh).
I bought the kit with the manual. It came with the choice of book or CD manual. I choose the CD manual, because it was less expensive. The manual is nice, but everything you need to know to sew the bra together is in the pattern instructions. The manual will be good if I plan on any design alterations in the future.
The kit includes enough fabric and findings for two bras. I have a small bra size, so I have enough fabric to make another bra or two, but will need more findings (and underwires).
As for needles, I did all of my sewing with a 80/12 Ballpoint. I found that I need to have my normal tension when sewing the elastics to the bra, less tension when sewing just the bra material (ie. sewing the cup pieces), and more tension when sewing underwire casings to the cups.
Pattern
Pin-Up Girls "Linda" (#8230) Partial Band Bra
 |
| The pattern along with what is left of my pink bra kit |
The instructions are also not clear when sewing on the back bra strap. At first, I sewed them at a 1/4" seam allowance, but the ends were too big to fit into the hook and eye pieces. So, I resewed them matching the outside of the bra strap with the bra band edge and that seemed to work.
 |
| Wrong side of the bra |
I am amazed with how well my Linda bra actually fits! It's a little snug, but it's definitely better than any bra that I've ever bought. Now for the reveal...
Not bad for my first bra! It's pretty comfortable. It is a little wrinkly in the picture, because I'm holding my arms in an awkward way for taking pictures.
The underwire is a little snug and the hooks and eyes are at the largest setting. I think I might try a 36C using the rest of my kit for a comparison. From there, I should be able to find out what works for me and make many more.
While I paid quite a bit to make just two bras (I think I spent around $190), I have a bra that fits and I now have the knowledge and skills to make many more bras. Plus, as I mentioned earlier, I have some left over fabric for a couple more bras on top of that (I'll just need more findings).
