In this post, I'm going back over the last few exercises of the Coletterie Wardrobe Architect series. Week 11 is about going over our capsule wardrobe and seeing what holes there are.


I feel even better than I did last time I did this exercise about where I want to go with my wardrobe. I've already started filling many of the gaps. Here is what I'm focusing on:

• More lightweight cardigans (already started with my Featherweight cardigan)
• A simple cable pullover (coming soon!)
• More knit tops (I've made some, but I need more Renfrews in other colours)
• More loose blouses 
• A Liberty/floral shirt 
• Skinny pants and jeans (I've temporarily filled this gap with second hand pairs)

I'm going back over Coletterie's Wardrobe Architect and now I'm at Week 9 and 10. Week 9 is about creating a capsule wardrobe. Last time I did this exercise, I was pretty happy with most of my silhouettes. But, some of it, particularly the silhouette for colder weather wasn't that great.

I'm finally back to my re-do of Colette's Wardrobe Architect series. In this post, I'm going to explore prints and solids (Week 7) and discuss hair and make-up (Week 8).

When I first discussed prints and solids, I was pretty much all over the place. I went through my existing wardrobe and created a mishmash of colours and prints.

I was right to conclude that I like florals and geometric patterns. But, when it actually comes to designing a wardrobe, I should try to include more solids to make it easier for my pieces to work together. So, while I will continue to love some prints (like my favourite robot print chiffon blouse), I need to include more solids in my wardrobe.

To help me do that, I am also going to think of fabric types. Some fabrics are so nice, you want them in a solid, just so the quality of the fabric stands out. Here is what I came up with:


More fabric types that will look good in solid, like the sweater knit and denim.  Mixed with a few fabrics that look good with a print, like the chiffon robots (heart). I think all of these help me with my overall goal of creating something a little more timeless and a little bit 'preppy'. It's already easier to imagine articles of clothing made up of the above examples that will work together.

On to Week 8: Hair, Make-Up, and Beauty. Last time I did this exercise, I actually did a good job putting down what I like and don't like. So, I will just summarize it again, I like a simple look (no make-up).

My hair is finally long enough that I can do a bit more with it if I want. I usually put it in a pony tail, but sometimes I will french braid it. That's it!

Overall, I think my clean, simple approach to beauty works well with the preppy look that I'm using as a guide.

In this post, I'm going to revisit Coletterie's Wardrobe Architect Week 5 (Your Color Story) and Week 6 (Organizing Your Palette).

Last time I did Week 5, I had an easy time picking colours that I liked. I guess my real problem was limiting the amount of colours! These were my original colours:


I picked so many colours! I still really like them all. But, I decided to remember my core style (preppy) and pick colours that were more suited to that. So, these are the new colours that I picked:

I think that these are the colours I like most and feel best wearing, so I'm going to focus on them.

And, it's already organized for the Week 6 exercise, organizing your palette.

Neutrals
Dove grey, cream, camel, taupe, and black

Nearly Neutrals
Olive and navy

Statement Colours
Mint, turquoise, blush, purple, scarlet, and gold

Much simpler than before. Last time I did this exercise, I had so many colours in the different categories. It will be much easier for me to shop for fabrics and build a wardrobe with this palette.

Week 3: Exploring Shape

This exercise was about exploring the shapes that make us feel comfortable and happy. The shapes I picked before, are the same when I think about shapes in that way. However, this can lead to a big problem - what if what you like, is not what is what other people are wearing?

On a recent trip to the 'big' city (Vancouver from my small town), I took the time to study current mainstream fashion. In the past, I used to spend this time buy RTW clothing at stores that aren't in my town - even if I didn't really need the clothes. On this trip, instead of buying anything, I peaked into clothing stores and people-watched around me.

I noticed one important thing: skinny pants are 'it'. By 'it', I mean that they are not just what's 'in', but that are all you can buy and all that people wear. They are IT - there were no other types of pant styles available.

J. Crew

While I (along with other wide hip ladies) may feel that bootleg or some other style of pant is best, there is a point where I will just look out of place if I don't adopt current clothing shapes. Sort of like wearing bell bottoms outside of the 1970s or pleated pants outside of the 1990s (until they make a comeback someday). Or, even more extreme, what if I thought I looked awesome in a Victorian Bustle Dress (and I totally do)? Outside of a steampunk costume event, I would look really out of place.


Some attention has to be paid to the social conventions around dress for your area/culture/age group, while picking shapes. You can deviate from the norm and wear whatever you want. But to pull it off successfully, you need to be confident and/or privileged.

So, instead of being overwhelmed by all of this, I'm going to think of the shapes that go with my style (so, somewhat preppy) and that are rated high on my worksheet (e.g. pants). I shouldn't be thinking of all shapes, but the ones that go with my style.

All this to say, I think I've opened my heart a little to skinny pants. And, my other shapes are blouses, tops, cardigans, and pullovers (since I can't really go topless).

Week 4: Building Silhouettes

Week 3 and week 4 almost have to be done together. You can't think about clothing shapes without thinking of balance and the overall look.

To achieve balance, you have to combine pieces that are structured and unstructured. So, if I pick skinny pants as a shape, I then need more flowy, unstructured tops to balance the outfit (as opposed to very fitted tops). That sounds good to me - flowy tops look nice and comfortable. Below are some Burdastyle blouse patterns that would work (I have most of these patterns already - yay!).



Here are a list of silhouettes that I could make (from cooler to warmer weather):

• Skinny pants, flowy blouse, cardigan
• Skinny pants, flowy blouse, blazer
• Crop pants, button-down blouse, tank top
• Capri pants/shorts/skirt, flowy blouse, cardigan  
• Capri pants/shorts/skirt, t-shirt/tank top, cardigan

So, not much different than before. Except I think, when I finally build my capsules, they will look more balanced.

After going through all of the Coletterie Wardrobe Architect exercises and now that I know how they work together, I'm going to revise my answers. With this post, I'm going to go back over weeks 1 to 2.

Week 1: Making Style More Personal


This first exercise is designed to make style "more personal". We were to discuss different parts of our identities and how they affect our style.

For the most part, my answers are the same as they were before. However, I missed discussing a big part of identity in relation to clothing: philosophy.

My philosophy could be a mix of Feminism, Socialism, Humanism, Anti- consumerism, Environmentalism, and maybe Anarcho-syndicalism. whew... All of this, in relation to clothing, means that I don't like the way clothing is made and consumed currently.

I don't like sweatshops and the horrible labour conditions people work in (the fire in Bangladesh is an extreme example).

I don't like that women who buy RTW clothing are made to feel horrible about their bodies, because the mass produced crap doesn't fit.

I don't like that our closets and garbage dumps are full of fast fashion.

All of this is why I got back into sewing in the first place. So, while this may not point to an exact style, it does say that I want clothes that fit and make me feel good, I want clothes that weren't made in a sweatshop, and I want clothes that are good quality and not fast fashion.

Week 2: My Core Style

I thought a lot more about this. I really wanted to get a better handle on a style than I did before. I want a style that will work with my goal to create a wardrobe that will last. It needs to be about quality and not quantity. I'm not as young as I once was, so it needs to be 'grown-up'. It needs to somewhat androgynous and to work for indoors and outdoors. Basically, it needs to reflect my lifestyle and what I am comfortable with.

What I came up with is going 'preppy'. Imagine the types of clothes worn by someone going yachting. The kinds of clothes you might find at Ralph Lauren or J. Crew. Or think of the likes of Jackie O.

While dressing 'preppy' is kinda "in" right now, most of the basics have been the same for decades. These outfits are simple, yet have a bit of a timeless quality to them. Certain colours might change and pant leg styles definitely do, but for the most part it is a way of dressing that emphasizes the quality of the clothing rather than being at the height of fashion. It is also a style that is more about comfort, which I also appreciate.

I'm not going to be strict with myself and only dress in preppy styles, but I think I can use it a a guide. Lots of clean lines and solid colours.

It seems a bit weird/shallow/obsessive to spend so much time thinking about what style of clothing I want to wear. I recognize that worrying about my wardrobe is absolutely a 'First World Problem'. However, if I'm going to care about how my clothes are made (especially, if I'm taking the time to make them myself) and the environment, it only makes sense to pick a wardrobe that is comfortable and will last. And by last, I mean not only the quality and durability, but that it won't look out of place in years to come.

PS. Here is an interesting blog post on the Roots of American Preppy and the Wikipedia page on Preppy.

I like my Colette Cooper a lot, but I needed a lighter bag for shopping. So, the Cooper "Lite" was born!


It's a nice light, backpack. I was able to use some cheap cotton fabric in my stash to make it.


Instructions

1. Cut out your fabric


Use the body piece of the Colette Cooper pattern and cut two body pieces on the fold. (Note: if you don't have this pattern, just cut 2 rectangles that are roughly 17" x 20"). I made my piece a little wider at the top and added 2" for the bag opening hem.

2. Sew the bag using french seams


Starting 2" below to top, sew the bag with right sides out. End 2" from the top on the other side. Trim the seam allowances and then flip the bag inside out. Sew the seams a second time about 1/4" from the edge - this is a french seam.

At the top of the bag, snip the seam allowances at the 2" mark. Press open the seams and stitch in a U-shape around the opening. Do this for both sides of the bag.


3. Sew the top hem of the bag and add cord

Sew the hem of the bag (I folded over 1/2" and then another 3/4"). Leave the hem wide enough to fit two cords through.

Cut two pieces of cord that are 60" long each. (Note: if you are having trouble finding cord, I found my cord at a camping supply store in the tent repair area).

Feed one of the cords through one side of the bag opening and then back through the other side.

4. Reinforce the bottom corners.

Apply interfacing to the bottom 2" of the corners (seen in the 1st picture of Step 2).

For extra reinforcement, slide pieces of felt into the corners of the bag, with the bag right side out.


Stitch across the bottom corners and add grommets. Make sure your grommet is just the right size for 2 cords to fit through.


Take the cord on one side of the bag and feed it through the grommet below it. Tie a knot to secure it.


5. Make an inner bag

Cut a piece of fabric about 10" long by 5" wide. Fold the fabric in half so you have a 5" x 5" square. Using french seams, sew side seams. On one side, leave a 1" opening and reinforce it with stitching (as was done for the main bag above).


Turn over the hem about 1/2" and sew hem while cord is in place (a zipper foot can help). Tie the cord ends together.

Sew the smaller bag inside out to the seam allowance of the larger bag (also inside out). Attach it about 2" down from the bag opening.


 That's it! you know have a nice little, folding backpack.


The shoulder straps close the bag opening nice and tight, while it's in use.


Maybe I'll go use it to buy more fabric!

I made myself a Colette Cooper bag! This bag went together a lot quicker than the Coopers I made for my brother and brother-in-law.


Pattern

Colette Patterns Cooper

Materials

The materials are all from my stash. You might recognize some of the fabrics. The teal is from my Sewaholic Minoru. The navy is from one of the Coopers. The red-orange is leftover from my Burdastyle shorts. And the cotton floral print I used for lining is some fabric I found at a yard sale for $1 awhile ago.


While searching for hardware for the other Coopers I made, I found a bit of extra pieces, like the bright orange strap with clasps and d-rings, that I kept aside. The zipper also came from the bag I stole the strap from. 


Alterations

As seen above, I added a little zipper to the pocket on the front of the bag. I also made the bag a blend of the different versions. I added a removable shoulder strap using d-rings.


I also added the straps on the back, so I can attach the bag to my bicycle.


I'm so happy about my bag! I can't wait to use it. Hopefully, it will work with my bicycle.

Week 12 of the Wardrobe Architect is to look at our accessories. I never considered myself a person with many accessories until I did this. These are the type of accessories I thought of:


I love my purse - someday I'll make an even fancier one, like the one above. I love my sunglasses, which are purple (I don't care that that's not one of my colours). I found a scarf a bit like the one in the picture and I've been wearing it with my Cordova jacket while it's still a bit cool.

I've never been good at figuring out what shoes to wear, but this project has really helped. Now, I'll feel more better paying more for better quality shoes, since I know I will probably wear them.

I like wearing watches. I have silver and I would like an antique brassy one. I also need more belts. Again, something I should get higher quality one's of.

I don't wear a lot of jewellery, but I do like to have lots of earrings with difference colour gems. I like small, dangling earrings. I should probably take this opportunity to throw out all the large, plastic earrings I wore in high school (lol). I also wear a heart necklace my sister gave me.

Week 11 of the Wardrobe Architect  is to compare our silhouettes to what we actually already own and look for any holes. These were my silhouettes and colours:


This step was a lot like I had done earlier when wardrobe planning. Except, I found it even easier, since I could also focus on colours and patterns. This exercise made it easier get rid of even more clothes that just aren't 'me' and that I hardly wear. Storage in my small bedroom is an issue, so I like that I am able to get rid of more stuff. What I do keep will probably last longer, since I will no longer be smashing and stuffing it into a drawer.

Right away, I found out that I need another pair of dress pants and some capris pants (for when it warms up a bit). I will probably use Burdastyle 08/2013#118 - the same pattern I used to make my jeans.



I've started knitting a light featherweight cardigan using some Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace in Willow. Hopefully, it will turn out.

I already got a jacket for my wardrobe. Of course, I made my Cordova with my Wardrobe Architect exercises in mind. I might make one other even lighter jacket for when it gets just a bit warmer. Maybe something like this cute Safari jacket (Burdastyle 02/2011 #127).



And of course, I would love to sew a few more knit tops. But, I my challenge there will be finding knit fabric that I like. The search is on!

I made my brother and my borther-in-law a Cooper each for their birthdays. Their birthdays are in January and these Coopers only finally got to them now. It took me from the beginning of January to mid-March to make them. I had so many setbacks (like the broken sewing machine), that I'm so happy they are finally done!


Pattern

Colette Patterns Cooper
 
My brother's Cooper is the green one. It is a combination of green cotton canvas and tan dockers cotton twill.


Both bags have the same features. They are a mixture of the different pattern views. I also handsewed on some leather buckles to help keep the flap secure.


The navy bag is for my brother-in-law. It's a combination of the tan dockers cotton twill and navy polyester twill.


The leather buckles were definitely a challenge. My husband, who has more experience with sewing leather, showed me how to do it. I used leather belts and bags from a secondhand store for the leather.


Each bag has the bike rack straps on the back.


I'm really happy with the bag linings. I spent *hours* trying to find the right fabric for the insides. I finally found some on Fabric.com. For my brother, I found a lovely cotton wolf print (he loves wolves).

  
Similarly, for my brother-in-law, I found a lovely cotton deer print. The Parks and Rec theme song plays in my head when I look at it.


And I added the messenger straps, but also made shoulder pads. On the inside of the shoulder pads, I added a bit of the lining fabric.


I learned a lot from sewing these bags. Mainly, they are a lot of work! I thought they would be easy, since you don't have to worry about sizing the pattern to fit a body. Plus, while I could easily draft a bag pattern myself, the pattern has the advantage of having all of the little bits and pieces already drafted for you.

However, if you are picky in any way about fabric and hardware choices, it can take forever to find what you need. If you live in a bigger city, you might be fortunate to have a few stores to easily find what you need. I did not have a good source for fabric or hardware. I ended up buying some of my hardware at secondhand stores and some online. I spent hours on fabric sites looking for the right fabrics. I think I was reduced to tears one point. In addition to time, all of the bits and pieces took a lot of money. It all came together at the end, but it was not easy.


Overall, I am really happy with how the bags turned out. My brother and my brother-in-law love their bags, too.

I might make myself a bag, but I might take a little break from bag making first.