I sewed this cute 1930s puff sleeve dress. 

The pattern is 1930's Flirty Puff Sleeve Tea Frock from My Vintage Wish on etsy.

The fabric was vintage from a thrift store. It is possibly late 1980s to 1990s based on the colours, but I'm not an fabric dater expert. The side had 'Northcott Sik INC' on the side, which may be Northcott Fabrics. Like they advertise, it is cotton that feels like silk. 

My measurements are close to the pattern, so the only size adjustment was add 0.5" to the wait just in case. It ended up being too loose there, but the belt tightens it up.

I knew right away that the shoulders would be too huge. I took out a lot of fabric there, but should have done another half inch at least. The puff sleeves end up kinda hanging of my shoulders.

The bust in particular was very challenging. I ended up moving the center where the middle triangle meets up about 2", so I could gather in more fabric. Before I made this change, it really stuck out there and looked terrible. I could have stored a third boob in there!

I may go back and take more out of the shoulders. They bug me enough to make me not want to wear it as much.

Overall, it is a very cute summer dress. I probably won't make this pattern again though, since it was a lot of work to make it work.

I finished knitting a 1930s sweater pattern and it turned out pretty great!

Pattern: Barbara, a 1930s delicate lace jumper from Subversive Femme on Etsy

Yarn: Rowan Yarns Purelife Cotton

My gauge was very different from the pattern gauge, so I had to do a few test swatches and some math. In the end, I found I was able to make it work by dropping 2 of the stockinette stitches in the pattern.

I also had fun joining in on the #nostalgiarulesknitalong on Instagram. I've never been part of a knit along before and was fun to see how all the different sweaters turned out.

I finally did it! A pair of pants 2 plus years in the making are finally done. After many delays and problems sourcing material, my dream pants are a reality.

Pattern

Burda 6573

I wanted a pair of 1930s style sailor pants, but with a slightly more contemporary fit. Burda 6573 was a perfect choice. 

Fabric

7.5oz Raw Organic Denim - Deep Indigo from Sitka Fabrics

The fabric ended up being perfect! The weight is just right. It has a bit of drape and not too structured. Yet, it is still heavy enough for a sturdy pair of pants. 

Alterations

 I made my usual adjustments for Burda patterns. I sewed a size 12 graded to size 14 for waist (I have 38" hips and 30.5" waist). I find their crotches a little weird and tend to bag out, so did my usual 'flat pubis' type adjustment. I also ended up letting out the front seam on my tummy out a bit, since it was pulling on the pockets. 

If I sew again, I am going to try to make the pocket or at least a pocket facing on the pattern pieces. I had originally sewed them in a different colour material, but it was too obvious. I had to go back and make the pockets out of denim. But, I won't complain too much, since I at least have pockets. 

These are seriously now my favourite pair of pants. I can't wait to wear them with many different tops. They are super comfortable and I think I'm the bees knees in them.

Check out my new jeans! I've used Closet Core Patterns Ginger Jeans to make a new pair of jeans.

For fabric, I used Blue Enzyme Washed Stretch Denim - 8.5oz from Simplifi Fabric (it was so hard finding denim with no polyester!). 

I wanted a new pair of jeans with a high waist and not too skinny legs, so I mashed together View A and View B.

I find the back pockets too low and should have raised them as I did with my first pair. I also wish I did the front pocket tummy stabilizer hack like I did with the first pair as I find that the pockets some times try to stick out of the pocket opening.

Some of you who might have followed in the past might be wondering what happened to all that 1940s wardrobe planning I did. I spent hours and hours making a plan and even making a 1940s blouse and wide leg pants, but then like everything 2020, it all fell off the rails.

Why can't I just snap my fingers and look like Vivien!

Like many out there, the pandemic left me with a lot less time and money to do things. And less of a need for fancy clothes, since I'm working from home. Also, I started to realize that the 1940s are nice, but I'm actually more into 1930s era clothes. I think they fit my body shape and style a little better. 

I also made some mistakes with my past attempts. One main thing was using cheap polyester fabric. It didn't matter how well my cool wide legged pants turned out, I never ever wanted to wear them because the polyester felt gross. I have come to realize that I really, really hate polyester. It even makes me itch (or perhaps that just whatever other weird chemicals are being dumped on the fabric).

So...

NEW GOALS!!!

• Look at the 1930s for inspiration, but don't feel limited by choosing this era (what if I want an Edwardian blouse!).
• Stay away from nasty polyester and not cheap out on fabrics.
• Try to pick items that will fit in with what I have already, so I don't feel like I have to start completely from scratch.

This tie-blouse has 1930s vibes. Source: Sézane

A lot of 1930s day dress vibes with this dress. Source: Simple Retro

I made the perfect work-from-home jacket! It's a simple yet stylish kimono jacket in a lovely rust colour. 

I made the length match an old karate gi jacket. And I made the sleeves 3/4 so they can stay out of the way. I probably should have made the sleeve seams a little higher up, but for what it is, it is fine.


The tie is nice, but it actually looks pretty good open, too. 

I'm back! After a long break from blogging and crafting (2020 was crazy, yo!), I'm trying to get back in the groove. One project I did manage to complete was this lovely Sea and Surf Sweater in Rowan Softknit cotton. 

Pattern: Sea and Surf Sweater

Yarn: Rowan Softknit Cotton (584 Walnut)

Needles: US 6

Size: Medium

I love the 1930s fan type pattern of this sweater. It has a nice retro vibe to it.

It was fun to sew and looks a lot more complicated than it actually is. The pattern is simple and yet makes a very nice fan design.

It's a bit stretchy and loose from wearing it. So, it now tries to slide down my shoulders when I wear it. I may try washing in hot water to see if that helps.  

I've finally done it! I've made the most comfortable bra ever. This is my fourth Linda bra by Pin Up Girl Patterns. I think I've mastered my fit.



I need to work on my stitching a bit. I have a few crooked stitches. Luckily, it doesn't show in the black. I need to get familiar with my machine and get my skills back up to snuff. The last bra I sewed was about 4 years ago!



I want to make more! I would love to work on my wardrobe, too. So, I'm not sure what I'll sew up next.

I used black 4.5oz Tencel twill from Blackbird fabrics. 

This was my first time sewing with tencel twill, so I had to learn how to handle the fabric as I went. I found that I had to finish all seams with a serger (instead of how the pattern did them), since the tencel had a tendancy to fray. I also had to make sure my iron was not too hot, since it started to get that shiny look that polyester gets when ironed too hot. 

The tencel has a nice cool hand to it. I'm not sure how it will breath until I wear it on a warmer day.

I made no adjustments to the blouse, and made the size according to my measurements (size 18). 

It feels a bit looser and shorter than I am used to, but it is meant to be tucked in. I think I will try a size down if I make it again. I may also add a second set of darts along the front to bring it in a little more. All the shaping comes from darts. The side seams are completely straight. I may also raise the sleeves a few inches if keeping them rolled up doesn't work.

And now for something completely different... Christmas Stockings with a bit of a retro feel. I am making stockings to replace the cheap dollar store ones my family has been using for the last few years.

Materials per Stocking
- 1/4 yard Christmas quilting fabric
- 1/4 yard lining fabric (eg. broadcloth)
- 1/4 yard quilt batting
- about 4"x12" of Aida cloth
- about 12" bias tape



Step 1: make a pattern and cut out two of the quilting fabric, two lining, two batting. Cut Aida cloth to about the top 4" of the stocking. Cut out a 2.5" x 7" rectangle in quilt fabric and batting.

Step 2: quilt the quilting fabric to the batting. I just did 2.5" squares to make it easy.

Step 3: assemble the hook by stitching the small rectangle quilt fabric and batting to a strip of 3/4" by 7". I simply folded over the quilt fabric on top of the batting and stitched down an edge that I had folded over.

Step 4: baste the hook the the stocking back.

Step 5: stitch the bias tape along one edge of the Aida cloth.

Step 6: baste the Aida cloth to the front of the stocking.

Quilted piece stitched to lining along the top and pressed open.

Step 7: stitch each of the quilt side stockings to one of the lining pieces along the top. You should end up with what looks like mirror image pieces. Leave about 2-3" open along the back so you can flip right side out later on. Press open the seams.

Each quilted piece attached to a lining piece along the top

Step 8: put the stocking fronts and backs together, matching up quilted side to quilted side and lining to lining. You should end up with one big U shape.

Step 9: pull the stocking right side out through the little opening and stitch the opening closed. Stuff the lining down into the stocking.



Step 10: personalize with some cross stitching. I'm leaving this step until next year...

As I mentioned in my vintage inspired capsule building posts, I am making some 1940s inspired pants. I went over many of the vintage patterns that can be found online and went with Eva Dress Trousers and Overalls with Hooded Blouse.

Pattern

Eva Dress Trousers and Overalls with Hooded Blouse



Materials

I made two pairs, both in mystery polyester suiting. It was a bit of a waste, but really wasn't sure if this silhouette would work for me.

Adjustments

The first pair (or muslin) I made without any adjustment. I cut my size and decided to see how it looked. I wanted these to be a wearable muslin, but to my dismay, the fabric was horrible.



Sadly, I was almost disgusted with what I ended up with. Who knew sewing could evoke such visceral reactions. I pays to get good fabric to begin with.

The second pair is wearable. I plan on wearing it out the office in the next few days. I feel like I need better shoes for the outfit, but overall I love the look.



The adjustments I made to this pair are:

• Took out almost 3" of ease in the hips and legs. The hips had about 5" of ease in them, I altered them to have about 2". Modern pants have about 1" (if not stretchy). I just felt like I was wearing grandpa pants.
• Added a zipper instead of buttons.
• Added a back patch pocket.

I am going to be making myself a pair of retro inspired pants, so I've started this list of vintage sewing patterns. If you know of any good ones, please let me know and I'll update the list.

	Simplicity 8447
	Simplicity 3688
	Simplicity 4044
	Simplicity 8243
	Decades of Style 4004
	Wearing History 1002
	Eva Dress Trousers and Overalls with Hooded Blouse
	Eva Dress Wide Leg Trousers
	Lady Marlowe Pants Pattern with Jacket
	Lady Marlowe 1930s Trousers with Sailor Blouse
	Lady Marlowe Pants and Blouse